 So there I was, perched precariously on an uncomfortable narrow seat in the tractor-hauled cart as it bumped its way up the hill heading for the main street ‘The Avenue.’ A few minutes earlier I had alighted from a rocky, one hour crossing on the boat from Guernsey. The rain had stopped, which renewed my enthusiasm for exploring tiny Sark, an island which is part of the Bailiwick of Guernsey. It is unique in that it is a fiefdom granted to the Seigneurie of St Ouen in Jersey back in 1565, with the proviso that he kept the island free from pirates. click on any image to enlarge words/images (c) Gilly Pickup The ride in the tractor-hauled buggy, nicknamed the ‘toastrack’ due to its design, is one of three ways visitors can get to the village after alighting from the boat – the other two involve walking up a steep hill or hiring a horse and cart (£10 pp per hour when I was there). Even the ambulance and fire engine operate on the towed-by-tractor basis. There are no roads, just dusty, stony tracks and rural pathways, so for walkers, good footwear is essential. Those who prefer to cycle can hire one from a shop on The Avenue. Although most people visiting the island are day trippers like me, there is accommodation available for those seeking a chill out break including a couple of hotels, guest houses, self-catering properties and a few campsites.  Alighting thankfully from the buggy, I walked passed the prison, possibly the world’s smallest with only two cells – a local told me that it is still used for rare, overnight stays. I was heading for historic manor house, ‘La Seigneurie’ built around 1675. Though the house, permanent residence of the present Seigneur – the head of Sark, is not open to the public, the grounds are open daily and it is one of Sark's most popular attractions. There is a café in the gardens where I had coffee and cake then suitably refreshed, set off again past deep winding valleys bursting with wild flowers, white washed cottages and berry-laden hedgerows to the Hog's Back headland, a favourite spot with picnickers. Dixcart Wood is worth a visit too, in spring it is carpeted in bluebells and it remains a blaze of year round colour thanks to the profusion of celandines, primroses, three-cornered garlic, red campion and ferns which grow here. Those seeking more adrenaline fuelled pastimes can try coasteering, geocaching or kayaking while at low tide, there are coastal caves to explore. Sark has no street lights so if locals go out at night they have to carry a torch to see where they are going. Since there is no light pollution, the night sky can be viewed in all its glory and Sark was designated the world’s dark sky first island in 2011. No special equipment is needed to enjoy the starry display but there is a powerful telescope in a small observatory – well, a shed really - primarily designed to keep star-gazers warm at night. If you go, you’ll be bound to see the creamy rich Milky Way, a display of shooting stars is almost guaranteed and you will be mesmerised by the twinkling lights of Guernsey far across the sea. Read about Guernsey's wildlife here The rest of my brief visit to the Channel Islands was spent in Guernsey, famed for its flowers and fabulous seafood and one of the few places in the world where Santa Claus arrives by lifeboat, rendering Rudolf redundant. It’s a small island, only 25sq miles, but has a variety of landscapes from rocky inlets to high-sided woodland and curving pastures. It’s easy to get whisked back in time as almost everywhere you look here there is evidence of a fascinating past, from medieval castles, forts and watchtowers to landmarks providing memories of the years when Hitler’s forces invaded the islands, particularly La Valette German Underground Museum and the Occupation Museum with its hoard of war relics. No modern fast food outlets are allowed on Guernsey either, it has stuck to its guns. No MacDonalds, Pizza Hut or Starbucks. Well maybe that’s no bad thing. Victor Hugo was so enamoured with the island that he was inspired to write most of Les Miserables there during his 15 year stay. He described his new homeland as ‘the rock of hospitality, this corner of old Norman land where the noble people of the sea reside.’ I wanted to visit his house but it was closed so had to make do with standing outside and imagining what it might look like from the inside. I did get inside Castle Cornet though, last remaining royalist stronghold during the last throes of the English Civil War. Unfortunately for the governor’s wife, an explosion in 1672 in the gunpowder store blew off the top of the tower and she was killed. Today, it contains several museums, including one devoted to all things seafaring while its gardens are great for wafting round on a pleasant day. Foodies should know that everywhere you go in Guernsey you’ll enjoy fantastic fare. Personally I like 'gache’, the local finger-licking fruit loaf traditionally eaten smothered with rich golden Guernsey butter. Fish fans must savour a bumper bowl of seriously fabulous ‘moules’, probably the freshest you’re likely to find. Add to that friendly locals, interesting scenery and inexpensive car rental and you’ll wonder, as I did, why it took you so long to visit. images (c) Gilly Pickup Sark Visitor Centre Guernsey Tourism Condor Ferries operates year round services from Poole to Guernsey Isle of Sark Shipping Company operate regular sailings from Guernsey to Sark  image (c) Cunard Inspiring voyages sailing 2023 and 2024, including special maiden voyages on new ship, Queen Anne. Luxury cruise brand Cunard unveils over 110 international voyages, sailing on its iconic fleet between 23 October 2023 and 14 May 2024, including maiden voyages on new ship Queen Anne. Across the new itineraries, the four-ship fleet - Queen Mary 2, Queen Victoria, Queen Elizabeth and Queen Anne, will call at 126 ports in 51 countries, with voyages ranging from two-night city breaks to a 108-night world voyage. Queen Anne is scheduled to call at more than 32 ports during her maiden season, all sailing out of Southampton. Following her maiden voyage to Lisbon, the newest Queen will embark on sailings in the Mediterranean, Caribbean and Northern Europe as well as an Eastbound Transatlantic Crossing. In 2024, Queen Victoria will embark on a 107-night World Voyage, departing Southampton on a full circumnavigation. The ship will sail westbound to North America, including a transit of the Panama Canal onwards to Australia, Asia, returning to Europe via South Africa, visiting 32 unique destinations. Queen Mary 2, the world’s only ocean liner, will begin her season with an Eastbound Transatlantic Crossing from New York, before setting off from Southampton on a 108-night World Voyage. The liner will sail to the Mediterranean, Asia via the Suez Canal, Australia returning to Europe via South Africa. Following a fly-cruise season in Barcelona, Queen Elizabeth will relocate to Singapore before starting her Australian residency with a 6-night voyage from Fremantle. She’ll embark on a series of short break and roundtrip voyages from Melbourne and Sydney, including a Christmas and New Year voyage to New Zealand, 10-night exploration of Queensland and a new 14-night voyage calling in the South Pacific. “Announcing every new programme for Cunard is always exciting, but this year is even more so, as guests will be able to choose itineraries across four magnificent ships in the fleet for the first time since 1999,” said Sture Myrmell, President, Carnival UK. “In the newly announced programme, each ship offers a unique experience with distinct itineraries. With Queen Anne based out of Southampton, Queen Elizabeth out of Australia and Japan and Queen Victoria and Queen Mary 2 both sailing world voyages, one with a full circumnavigation, the other exploring destinations across the Mediterranean, Asia, Australia and Africa. Our new voyages bring opportunities to explore all corners of the world in luxurious surroundings while enjoying our White Star Service and all the other special touches that make a trip with Cunard so special.” Please sign up Shine Rewards Club at www.shinerewardsclub.com for further information. Welcome to The World 2023 & 2024 New Voyages - Key Itineraries Maiden Voyage (H403) Guests join an illustrious guest list on board Queen Anne’s maiden voyage to Lisbon, celebrating a new chapter of Cunard history. Sailing roundtrip from Southampton on 4 January 2024, this 7-night voyage will offer an overnight port call in which to savour Lisbon’s UNESCO-listed Belém Tower, palaces of Sintra, and the atmospheric nightlife of the Barrio Alto. On her return to Southampton, the newest Queen will be joined by sister ships Queen Mary 2 and Queen Victoria, marking the first time these three Queens will come together. A fitting end to a voyage filled with celebratory moments. Inside staterooms from £1,299 per person. Eastern Caribbean (H405) Guests can take pleasure in all that the newest ship has to offer on this 35-night Caribbean adventure taking in Barbados and St Lucia. Queen Anne departs Southampton 27 January 2024. Inside staterooms from £5,299 per person. Western Mediterranean (H408) This 16-night voyage comprises a mix of days at sea and time in port, offering the chance to discover the on board delights as well as the fascinating histories of Lisbon, Cadiz and Rome. Queen Anne departs Southampton 29 March 2024. Inside staterooms from £2,299 per person. Full World Voyage (V404D) This 107-night World Voyage provides the opportunty to see the four corners of the world. Destinations including San Francisco and Fiji plus overnights in Hong Kong and South Africa. Queen Victoria departs Southampton 11 January 2024. Inside staterooms from £12,499 per person. Southampton to Sydney (M403B) Blissful days at sea provide a relaxing balance between time ashore in Portugal, South Africa and Australia on this 47-night sailing that includes three overnight port calls. Queen Mary 2 departs Southampton 11 January 2024. Inside staterooms from £5,699 per person. Queensland (Q405) The white sands of the Whitsunday Islands and UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Great Barrier Reef are among the natural highlights of this 10-night voyage. Queen Elizabeth departs Sydney 22 January 2024. Inside staterooms from £1,399 per person. Southern Islands (Q417) The 10-night round trip from Tokyo transports guests from neon-lit streets to historic shrines, stately castles and natural habitats. Queen Elizabeth departs Tokyo 14 May 2024. Inside staterooms from £1,399 per person. 2023 and 2024 new voyages sailing on Queen Mary 2, Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth are available to book from 24 May 2022, Queen Anne’s maiden sailings are bookable from 17 May 2022. Social Media Facebook: www.facebook.com/cunard Twitter: www.twitter.com/cunardline YouTube: www.youtube.com/wearecunard Instagram: www.instagram.com/cunardline Cunard, luxury British cruise line, is renowned for creating unforgettable experiences around the world. Cunard has been a leading operator of passenger ships on the North Atlantic since 1840, celebrating 182 years of operation. A pioneer in transatlantic journeys for generations, Cunard is world class. The Cunard experience is built on fine dining, hand-selected entertainment and outstanding service. From five-star restaurants and in-suite dining to inspiring guest speakers, the library and film screenings, every detail has been meticulously crafted to make the experience unforgettable. Destinations include Europe, the Caribbean, the Far East and Australia. There are currently three Cunard ships, Queen Mary 2, Queen Elizabeth and Queen Victoria and a fourth ship, Queen Anne, will be entering service in early 2024. This investment is part of the company’s ambitious plans for the future of Cunard globally and will be the first time since 1999 that Cunard will have four ships in simultaneous service. Well, probably. 1. Stavanger is the 'cradle of the Vikings'. Head for the Archaeological Museum where a guide (dressed as a Viking) will tell you tales and demonstrate Viking tools 2. Norway has a rich brewing tradition. Until around 200 years ago, no farm was complete without a brewhouse. Cheers! all photos copyright Gilly Pickup 3. Lutefisk is a traditional Norwegian seafood dish, considered a delicacy. The recipe involves soaking a fish in lye then rinsing it in water. Is it good? Well let's say it's an acquired taste 4. Stavanger has some fabulous beaches. Yes, really. White sands and sheltered coves mean sun worshippers flock there despite the water's chilly temperature 5. The Sword in the Rock monument is made up of three swords forced into solid rock. They commemorate the place where Viking King Harald Haarfagre defeated the last of the regional princes way back in AD872 and founded the kingdom that is now Norway 6. This is crafty. A Norwegian invented the cheese slicer in 1927. It was a hot day when carpenter Thor Bjerklund opened his Gouda cheese slices and was horrified to find that they had melted and were all stuck together. He tried separating them, eventually using a plane that he used to slice wood. A few modifications later and voila! the cheese slicer had been invented. 7. Stavanger is the petroleum capital of Norway and one of the world's biggest oil exporters. This doesn't mean it's cheap to fill up here though, locals have to put up with some of the highest petrol prices in the world. Doesn't seem fair, does it?  The tiny Grand Duchy of Luxembourg is landlocked by Belgium, France and Germany. This constitutional monarchy with Grand-Duc Henri at the helm, has as its capital Luxembourg City. Built on a plateau dotted with ravines at the confluence of two rivers, this banking centre is one of Europe's most prosperous. Generations of listeners may also remember it as the home of Radio Luxembourg which broadcast around Europe for 59 years until 1992. The city is an eclectic blend of old and new where history and high fashion rub shoulders with chic restaurants, culture and – it has to be said - a somewhat slow-paced nightlife. If you’re in town on a Wednesday or Saturday visit the market in Place Guillaume for a dose of local colour. Stalls are piled high with rich textured local wines, stacks of hearty cheeses, homemade preserves and fresh flowers.  photos (c) Mike & Gilly Pickup Click on any image to enlarge Picturesque landscapes greet you wherever you go in this land of meandering rivers, dense forests, green valleys and steep ridges, more often than not topped by a ruined castle. The toy sized village of Vianden, a stone’s throw from the German border, has one such theatrically dramatic medieval castle, particularly beautiful when floodlit at night. It's a calf-wrenching climb to reach it, up a steeply pitched, cobblestoned road, but it's worth it for the king-of-the-world views that await you. From Vianden, take an afternoon’s gentle sightseeing cruise on the Moselle river to Trier and enjoy Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cakes) en route. Trier, said to be Germany’s oldest city, is famed for its Roman ruins and bustling market. The Moselle flows through Luxembourg's main wine-producing region and many larger wineries including Domaines Vinsmoselle, offer tours of their cellars with tastings of white and sparkling wines. Nowhere is far from anywhere here. Müllerthal, ‘valley of millers’, so-called because of its abundance of watermills, is known as 'Little Switzerland'. Imposing rock formations date from the ice age, clear silver streams rumble and cascade between boulders while pine, birches and hornbeams reach up towards the skies. The road is lined with bizarrely shaped rocks with strange sounding names like Hölle (Hell) and l'Ile du diable (Devil's Island). Little Switzerland is also popular with hikers and cyclists. Tips for Travellers
 Suffering from lack-of- holiday blues? Give yourself a treat by taking to the water by ferry .... Easy check-in processes, relaxing onboard passenger lounges and refreshment areas mean a chilled-out ambience from start to finish. Spacious public decks lend themselves to social distancing and give ferry passengers room to relax or stretch their legs, collect their thoughts and experience a more mindful method of travel. Holidaymakers travelling by vehicle also avoid packing stresses, no baggage restrictions and bike racks, sports gear and camping equipment are transported fuss-free. Abby Penlington, Director at Discover Ferries, says: “To inspire holidaymakers looking to enhance their wellbeing we have compiled a guide to escapes by ferry that stimulate the mind, body and spirit.” Active trips to strengthen the body To build core strength, flexibility and calm your mind, Isle of Wight visitors can attend sessions combining traditional Asana yoga with stand-up paddle boarding (SUP). Travel from Portsmouth or Lymington with Wightlink; Southampton with Red Funnel; via Hovertravel from Southsea. Operating with extra capacity for bicycles, Uber Boat by Thames Clippers means city dwellers and visitors can take in London's sights from the river, before continuing their commute or exploration of parks, piers and pathways on two wheels. The Scilly Isles sandy beaches are perfect for open water swimming and kayaking, on a sunny day you’ll find it hard to believe you are in Britain. Embrace your adventurous spirit and take social distancing to the extreme by chartering a boat to an uninhabited island for a solitary stroll. Isles of Scilly Travel offers services on The Scillonian departing from Penzance to St Mary’s Harbour. For those who have taken up walking during lockdown and want to do this during holidays, the Isle of Man’s Raad ny Foillan Coastal Path is ideal. Covering nearly 100 miles, ambitious walkers can complete the route in four days or opt to walk the course in 10 days. Walkers are rewarded with spectacular views, fantastic picnicking spots and restaurants to suit all budgets. Travel with Isle of Man Steam Packet Company from Heysham to Douglas year-round or seasonally from Liverpool, Dublin and Belfast. Holidays to reset the mind
Retreat to the Holy Isle, a remote Buddhist island off Scotland's Isle of Arran, to indulge in Tai Chi, yoga and meditation. With relaxing activities that focus the mind in tranquil surroundings, it’s easy to see why visitors return to Re-Vitalise Retreats. Travel to Arran with CalMac ferries from Ardrossan or Kintyre, departing from Clanoig in summer and Tarbert in winter months. The Netherlands has a culture of indoor wellness centres that offer the ultimate in hot and cold pools, steam rooms and saunas. Travel with DFDS via its Newcastle to Amsterdam route; P&O Ferries departing from Hull to Rotterdam; Stena Line’s services between Harwich and the Hook of Holland. Practise the Japanese art of forest bathing at St Brelade in Jersey, it reduces stress and improves concentration. Visitors are encouraged to take in the forest's fresh air under the guidance of local herbalists and if they wish they can forage for ingredients for a relaxing tea. Condor Ferries operate links to Jersey from Poole. Nourishing breaks that will heighten your senses An apple a day keeps the doctor away, so why not visit France’s apple region? Apple desserts, apple juice, cider and Calvados apple brandy mean no shortage of sampling opportunities across the region. From May to December, visitors can participate in harvesting the fruit. Sail to Normandy from Portsmouth or Poole with Brittany Ferries; from Newhaven to Dieppe with DFDS; P&O Ferries and DFDS operate from Dover. The Irish coastline is home to a variety of edible plant life making it a haven for foragers. Besides mushrooms, herbs, mosses and wild blackberries, there are more than 600 types of nutrient-packed seaweed. Foragers can sustainably harvest by cutting the tips – never the root – with a knife, it adds flavour to soups, bakes and infused oils. The food trail in Waterford is a great introduction to Ireland’s native plant life and local producers. Travel to Ireland from the UK with Irish Ferries via Pembroke-Rosslare and Holyhead-Dublin routes; P&O Ferries from Liverpool to Dublin; Stena Line on Holyhead-Dublin and Fishguard-Rosslare services. The Buddhist Samye Ling and Centre on Holy Isle are closed until the end of 2020 due to COVID-19, however, in line with Scottish Government advice, visitors can kayak, walk and enjoy nature on the island. Discover Ferries represents 13 ferry operators in the UK, the British Islands and Ireland operating more than 80 routes. Its role is to promote ferry travel and holidays. The carriage of freight vehicles is also an important part of the business. Discover Ferries members are Brittany Ferries, Caledonian MacBrayne, Condor Ferries, DFDS, Hovertravel, Irish Ferries, Isle of Man Steam Packet Company, Isles of Scilly Travel, Uber Boat by Thames Clippers, P&O Ferries, Red Funnel, Stena Line and Wightlink. |
