A few of my favourite things : 24 Hours in Salzburg
glorious architecture, quaint coffee shops, towering turrets, look-at-me churches - but a thoroughly modern city too
Click on images to enlarge (c) Gilly Pickup
Compact, pristine Salzburg is one of Europe's finest baroque cities. Once capital of an independent country ruled by the powerful prince-archbishops, it offers an inspiring mixture of grand city scape and mountain views and is dripping with history to boot. So much so, in fact, that the Old City was listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1997. Its blast-from-the-past cobbled streets and narrow alleyways lined with ice cream coloured houses, elegant shops and restaurants, combine with an unhurried pace of life make it an ideal destination for a relaxing city break at any time of year.
What to see and do
11th-century Hohensalzburg fortress was once home to the prince-archbishops. This mighty medieval castle is Central Europe's largest unconquered fortification. Take the funicular to the top for spectacular views over the city and Salzach river, which splits the city in two. Guided tours are available year-round.
The Mozart family lived at Getreidegasse 9 for 26 years and this was the celebrated composer's birthplace. The home of the boy genius, who was able to read, play and compose music by the time he was five, is now a museum where visitors can marvel over his violin, harpsichord, piano and letters from the Mozart family. A word of warning: it gets very crowded during high season.
Hellbrunn Palace is an architectural masterpiece just south of the city, where you can see mystical grottoes, trick fountains, a miniature mechanical theatre with 141 moving figures, and a folklore museum. Kids love to make merry in the gardens, too. For The Sound of Music fans, this is where to see the pavilion where Liesl and Franz first met.
Shopping fix
Salzburg has a feast of shops, from long-established stores, international chains and independent boutiques. Some of the more unusual include the Kirchtag Umbrella Shop in Getreidegasse, a family business producing hand-made quality umbrellas and parasols as well as bags, gloves and walking canes – suited to those with a touch of the dandy. Inside is a 1,000-year-old wall, uncovered during routine maintenance work.
Sporer Wines and Spirits is a shop, bar and all-round convivial place. This small, always busy, third-generation family business is in the narrowest house in the Getreidegasse, next door to hotel Blaue Gans. It offers a large selection of liqueurs and schnapps, which can be sampled by the glass or purchased by the bottle. The ‘House Blend’ is a herbal liqueur, while the orange punch is still made according to granny’s original 1927 recipe. Jolly good it is, too. A bottle of in-house-produced schnapps is a great present to take home.
Tailor Jahn-Markl in the Residenzplatz has been making traditional lederhosen since 1408. This is another family-run business which also produce dirndls, hand-knitted socks and jackets.
Click on images to enlarge (c) Gilly Pickup
Compact, pristine Salzburg is one of Europe's finest baroque cities. Once capital of an independent country ruled by the powerful prince-archbishops, it offers an inspiring mixture of grand city scape and mountain views and is dripping with history to boot. So much so, in fact, that the Old City was listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1997. Its blast-from-the-past cobbled streets and narrow alleyways lined with ice cream coloured houses, elegant shops and restaurants, combine with an unhurried pace of life make it an ideal destination for a relaxing city break at any time of year.
What to see and do
11th-century Hohensalzburg fortress was once home to the prince-archbishops. This mighty medieval castle is Central Europe's largest unconquered fortification. Take the funicular to the top for spectacular views over the city and Salzach river, which splits the city in two. Guided tours are available year-round.
The Mozart family lived at Getreidegasse 9 for 26 years and this was the celebrated composer's birthplace. The home of the boy genius, who was able to read, play and compose music by the time he was five, is now a museum where visitors can marvel over his violin, harpsichord, piano and letters from the Mozart family. A word of warning: it gets very crowded during high season.
Hellbrunn Palace is an architectural masterpiece just south of the city, where you can see mystical grottoes, trick fountains, a miniature mechanical theatre with 141 moving figures, and a folklore museum. Kids love to make merry in the gardens, too. For The Sound of Music fans, this is where to see the pavilion where Liesl and Franz first met.
Shopping fix
Salzburg has a feast of shops, from long-established stores, international chains and independent boutiques. Some of the more unusual include the Kirchtag Umbrella Shop in Getreidegasse, a family business producing hand-made quality umbrellas and parasols as well as bags, gloves and walking canes – suited to those with a touch of the dandy. Inside is a 1,000-year-old wall, uncovered during routine maintenance work.
Sporer Wines and Spirits is a shop, bar and all-round convivial place. This small, always busy, third-generation family business is in the narrowest house in the Getreidegasse, next door to hotel Blaue Gans. It offers a large selection of liqueurs and schnapps, which can be sampled by the glass or purchased by the bottle. The ‘House Blend’ is a herbal liqueur, while the orange punch is still made according to granny’s original 1927 recipe. Jolly good it is, too. A bottle of in-house-produced schnapps is a great present to take home.
Tailor Jahn-Markl in the Residenzplatz has been making traditional lederhosen since 1408. This is another family-run business which also produce dirndls, hand-knitted socks and jackets.
Where to stay
The Blaue Gans is the oldest inn in town – 650 years old to be exact. It has an enviable location on Getreidegasse, Salzburg’s main street, so is handy for most city attractions. It has been transformed into a 21st-century art hotel, with contemporary sculpture, photography and paintings. Individually designed rooms are crisp, spotless and comfortable. The restaurant serves both traditional and modern fare.
The Blaue Gans is the oldest inn in town – 650 years old to be exact. It has an enviable location on Getreidegasse, Salzburg’s main street, so is handy for most city attractions. It has been transformed into a 21st-century art hotel, with contemporary sculpture, photography and paintings. Individually designed rooms are crisp, spotless and comfortable. The restaurant serves both traditional and modern fare.
Coffee break
Look no further than Café Tomaselli on the Alter Markt, all wood panelling, marble tables, silver trays and tuxedo-clad waiters. Founded in 1705, it is Austria’s original ‘Viennese coffee house’. Throughout the centuries, it has been a popular meeting place for the movers and shakers of the day, including Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Besides its popular balcony, there is an atmospheric garden lined with shady chestnut trees.
Time for lunch
The Sternbräu at Griesgasse 23-25 is a grand old building dating from the mid-13th century. On a fine day sit in the beer garden, people-watch and enjoy a sturdy lunch. How about traditional goulash with beer cream sauce, white bread dumplings and salad or a mixed plate of ham (boiled ham, prosciutto, smoked ham, bread and butter) . Fish fans might prefer broiled char with rosemary butter, almonds and salted potatoes. The sweet-toothed will be in seventh heaven - try apfelstrudel with cream or the 'Salzburger Nockerl' (Salzburg-style soufflé). Children are welcome, there is a playroom , baby-care room and aplayground in the inner courtyard. The kids' menu is sure to please small fry, with choices like chicken kebabs with chips and ketchup or chocolate pancakes.
Dinner date
Döllerer tavern outside Salzburg in the village of Golling, is run by an extended family. It's somewhere to treat your tastebuds with delights such as basted alpine salmon with marinated asparagus and wild garlic cream or goulash with dumplings and fried egg.
words & images all (c) Gilly Pickup Return to features index